As I lay in bed rotting and recovering from expending 1000% of my social battery and physical energy throughout NYFW (worth it, obviously,) I can finally dream of the cuntiest moments that graced the stage. More than ever, this season feels like sustainability is really here—especially with emerging designers making their on-calendar debuts and off-calendar heavy hitters generating the most buzz. The collections shown at NYFW feel bigger than just the clothes this season, real conversations are happening about the messaging and materials behind each.
The designers on this list prove that the future of fashion is intentional. NYFW FW25 served cunt and the baddies were gagged, so let’s run through some iconic moments and sustainable slays that hit the runway this season.
Selkie
zero waste | woman-owned | small-batch ethical production
Every moment of Selkie’s runway will go down in NYFW history—from wigs adorned with literal political dioramas (“The Whore’s Bed,” “The Influencer Desk,” and “The Ozempic Table”) to the beautifully inclusive casting. At no point were we able to pick our jaws up off the ground, but I think we can all agree that the collective gasp hit hardest when a topless model strutted down the runway, ice cream in hand, in an homage to Kate Moss at Vivienne Westwood SS94.
Gabe Gordon
hand crafted | deadstock & vintage textiles
Gabe Gordon debuted on the NYFW calendar this season with Rubber Boyfriend, a collection that blurs the line between nostalgia and nightmare, channeling ‘80s suburbia through a fever-dream lens of high school power plays, desire, and transformation. Look 26 is the perfect balance of pain and prettiness, from the model’s black eyes to how his torso invertedly echoes the shape of his silk boxers and the frilly details on his suspenders and headgear.
Collina Strada
ethically made | woman-owned | sustainable materials
Collina Strada’s FW25 collection Fempire embodied a grungier, more gothic, and neutral energy than the brand's usual dreamy, pastel whimsy. Look 8 played with humor, internet culture, and layered femininity that felt both subversive and effortlessly cool. Tapping into the girl dinner meme, Taymour wove internet-fueled funny femininity into her commentator on power, visibility, and self-expression.
Destroyer of Worlds
upcycled & deadstock materials | queer-owned
Another NYFW debut we were happy to be part of, Destroyer of Worlds’ The Dark Forest presented an end-of-the-world talk show broadcast and commentary on how consumer and celebrity culture have become our salvation. Look 8, made of regenerated materials, reflected the tension between identity and our celebrity-driven world.
Caroline Zimbalist
bioplastic | sustainable textiles
Queen of bioplastic Caroline Zimablist showed us how innovative sustainable textiles can inspire us beyond their physical form. She used her signature material to transform her plastics into prints, mixing new pieces with her old ones (we love a repurposed collection). We even had a moment to chat with her about the collection after the show!
CAMPILLO
sustainably & ethically made | Latine-owned
Inspired by the surreal-yet-familiar, CAMPILLO offered a reflection for those of us who feel disconnected from the world in the most grounded, otherworldly way. Fictions of Reality showcased Latin America’s complexities through supernatural influences and cultural references. When that multilayered belt walked down the runway, it instantly reminded me of Charro belts, while the patterns and silhouette of the pants and coat felt alien.
Tyler McGillivary
woman-owned | sustainably & ethically made
In 20 years, we’ll look back on TMG’s NYFW debut with the same nostalgia we have for 90s runways, where models had a blast performing on stage instead of just, well, modeling. The entire collection was inspired by the thrill of getting ready for date night. While each look was a burst of colorful fun, this one brought Party Girl (1995) realness.
PH5
sustainably & ethically made | Asian woman-owned
There is rarely a moment when I am drawn to wear bright neon colors—unless it’s anything by PH5. The way their colors appear on their knitwear feels like I’m seeing something new for the first time. PH5 are fashion scientists, and this season, they were inspired by Resurrecting the Sublime, a project that aims to resurrect plant scents from pressed flowers. The pinks, greens, blacks, and signature squiggle cuts on look 18 are exactly what my allergist prescribed.
Taottao
Asian women-owned | handcrafted
Taottao is quickly becoming a brand to watch on the NYFW stage. I’m obsessed with these rope-detailed coats that can be transformed through the manipulation of ties and threading—a theme that designer Yitao Li explores throughout her work. FW25 is inspired by antique furniture reimagined as if passed through a paper shredder. Look 5 is a circus-like and deconstructed labyrinth of rope.
Abacaxi
Indian woman-owned | ethically & sustainably made | size-inclusive
Stepping into Abacaxi’s ethereal world is always a blessing. This collection, Apsara, blends surrealist and mythological influences inspired by hybrid woman-tree forms and Apsaras, celestial beings from Hindu mythology. Through woven and dyed textiles, convertible pieces, and bright earthy colors, the collection blends nature with spirituality and wearable art. With a long braid wrapped in her hands, banana leaf anklets, and yellow, orange, and green hues, this look embodies that connection perfectly.
Sam Finger
sustainably sourced & upcycled materials
Sam Finger brings the spirit of punk and DIY to NYFW this season with 24 HRS, a collection that explores the cycle of life, the everyday choices we make, and examines the rhythm of constant movement. Look 13 is a distressed ski-babe take on the hooded dress, worn by Yung Merlot.
Melke
sustainably & ethically made | woman-owned
Designer Emma Gage returned to her Midwestern roots this season, creating a collection shaped by humor, hospitality, and ranch dressing. The Supper Club features earthy tones to reflect Midwestern supper clubs, with prints that nod to Hidden Valley Ranch. It’s a welcome way of making people feel at home in a city that often feels too fast-paced and impersonal. We love the over-the-top bow, the ‘80s chic essence, and subtle ranch bottle prints on look 6.
What was your fave sustainable look from this season?